Honda Civic Service Manual: Alternator Overhaul (Except K24Z7)

1.

Remove the heat shield (A) and the harness brackets (B).

1.

Remove the terminal insulator (A).

1.

Remove the four through bolts.

2.

Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes (122－140 °F(50－60 °C)).

3.

Separate the rear housing from the drive-end housing by inserting a flat-tip screwdriver into the openings and prying them apart.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the stator with the tip of the screwdriver.

4.

Separate the rear housing (A) and the drive-end housing (B) with the stator (C) attached to the rear housing.

1.

Remove the stator.

1.

Check for continuity between each lead (A).

If there is no continuity, replace the stator.

2.

Check for continuity between each lead and the coil core (B).

If there is continuity, replace the stator.

1.

Remove the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly (A).

1.

Measure the length of both brushes with a vernier caliper:

If either brush is shorter than the service limit, replace the brushes, go to step 2.

2.

Unsolder the brush leads from the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly with a 100 W soldering iron (A), then replace the brushes.

1.

Remove the rectifier.

1.

Check for continuity in each direction, between the B terminal and P terminals, and between the E terminal and P terminals of each diode pair. All diodes should have continuity in only one direction. Because the rectifier diodes are designed to allow current to pass in one direction, and the rectifier is made up of six diodes (six pairs), you must test each diode in both directions for continuity with an ohmmeter that has diode checking capability: a total of 24 checks.

If any diode fails, replace the rectifier assembly. (Diodes are not available separately.)

1.

Clamp the rotor in a soft-jawed vise.

2.

Remove the pulley nut, then remove the pulley.

1.

Remove the rotor using a puller as shown.

2.

Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal surface in the drive-end housing for seizure marks.

NOTE: If either the rotor or drive-end housing is damaged, replace the alternator.

1.

Measure the resistance between the slip rings (A).

If the resistance is not within the standard, replace the rotor assembly.

2.

Check for continuity between each slip ring and the rotor (B) and the rotor shaft (C).

If there is continuity, replace the rotor assembly.

1.

Remove the rear bearing using the puller as shown.

1.

Remove the front bearing retainer plate.

2.

Drive out the front bearing with a brass drift and a hammer.

1.

Install a new front bearing in the drive-end housing with a hammer, the driver handle, 15 x 135L, and the attachment, 42 x 47 mm.

2.

Install the front bearing retainer plate.

1.

Use a hand press to install the new rear bearing. Apply pressure only on the inner race to avoid damaging the bearing.

1.

Install the rotor.

2.

Clamp the rotor in a soft-jawed vise.

3.

Install the pulley.

1.

Install the rectifier.

1.

Install the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly (A).

1.

Install the stator.

1.

Remove any grease or oil from the slip rings.

2.

Push the brushes (A) in, then insert a pin or drill bit (B) (about 1.8 mm (1/16 in) diameter) to hold them in place.

3.

Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes (122－140 °F(50－60 °C)).

4.

Put the rear housing assembly (A) and the drive-end housing/rotor assembly (B) together, tighten the four through bolts (C), and pull out the pin (D).

5.

After assembling the alternator, turn the pulley by hand to make sure the rotor turns smoothly and without noise.

1.

Install the terminal insulator (A).

1.

Install the heat shield (A) and the harness brackets (B).